Where to Eat Tuna Eyes in Okinawa

The izakaya, Japan’s neighborhood drinking and dining spot, has long been a cornerstone of Japanese food culture. These convivial establishments evolved into informal gastropubs that specialize in small, shareable plates designed to pair with sake, beer, and other drinks. In Okinawa, the izakaya tradition takes on a distinct local flavor, highlighting the island’s abundant seafood and regional ingredients.

In Naha, Okinawa’s capital, one izakaya stands out for its focus on fresh fish and time-honored techniques: Payao. This compact, counter-style restaurant has built a loyal following thanks to the expertise of chef Tsutomo Yamashiro, who brings more than five decades of experience to the kitchen. Payao’s menu showcases the best of Okinawan seafood in straightforward, satisfying preparations that let the ingredients speak for themselves.

One of Payao’s most talked-about offerings—especially during tuna season—is braised tuna eyes. Considered a delicacy by many, tuna eyes are prized for their rich, gelatinous texture and deeply savory flavor. The meat behind the eye, in particular, has a dense, satisfying mouthfeel; when cooked carefully, it becomes tender and unctuous, with a richness that some compare to slow-cooked short ribs or marrow.

At Payao, chef Yamashiro prepares the tuna eyes with a classic, balanced braise. Soy sauce, rock sugar, sake, and dashi combine to create a glaze that penetrates the meat and highlights the natural umami of the tuna. The slow, gentle cooking process melts connective tissues and renders the fat, resulting in a dish that is both complex and comforting. Because tuna eyes are limited in quantity, they tend to sell out quickly—arrive early if this is a must-try item on your list.

Visiting an izakaya like Payao offers more than a single unique dish; it’s an opportunity to experience a slice of Okinawan dining culture. Plates are typically served family-style, encouraging conversation and shared discovery around the table. The casual atmosphere, attentive service, and chef-driven specials make izakayas ideal places to sample lesser-known parts of the fish that don’t often appear on standard menus elsewhere.

For travelers and food enthusiasts interested in Okinawa’s seafood traditions, seeking out dishes such as braised tuna eyes provides insight into the island’s palate and the ways chefs apply simple techniques to powerful effect. Enjoying these dishes in a small, local establishment also supports the region’s culinary heritage and the chefs who keep these methods alive.

Tune in for Bizarre Foods: Okinawa, Tuesday July 19 at 9|8c on Travel Channel.

For those planning a visit, remember that izakaya menus can be seasonal and change based on daily catch. When a specialty like tuna eyes is available, it’s often a highlight of the evening service. If you have dietary preferences or questions about preparation, staff at traditional izakayas are usually happy to explain ingredients and cooking methods.

Contact

10-5 Shineicho
Ishigaki 907-0014, Okinawa
+81-980-83-3744

Photographs courtesy of Travel Channel.